Read This Before You Post Anything : The Info For Beginners Thread

Discussion in 'Guitar Gear Talk Forum' started by ultrabot90, Aug 15, 2010.

  1. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    Read This Before You Post Anything : The Info For Beginners Thread v0.2

    Changelog
    v0.1 15.08.2010 (Independence Day, and I do hope this will result in us being free - mostly - of all moronic threads)
    v0.2 17.08.2010 Cosmetics, custom amp section is less fanboyish (lmao), numbering system added, changelog added, and we hit the character count on post 1 :p

    Table o' them contents
    0. Introductions an' the likes
    0.1. What this is and why it is here
    0.2. Disclaimer
    0.3. Suggestions/changes

    1. The Guide Part 1
    1.1. BEFORE YOU BEGIN : Don't skimp, you get what you pay for!
    1.2. Guitar
    1.2.1. Which guitar is for you.
    1.2.2. Guitars - The Usual Suspects
    1.2.3. The "Don't go for tremolos on a low budget" rant.

    2. The Guide Part 2
    2.1. The Rest Of The Signal Chain - Amps, Pedals, Processors, Pickups
    2.1.1. Which setup is for you.

    2.1.2. Amps
    2.1.2.1. 'Don't skimp on amps' rant
    2.1.2.2. Understanding an amp/Things to consider when choosing an amp
    2.1.2.3. Amps - The Usual Suspects
    2.1.2.4. Handbuilt Tube Amps (t3h 1337nezz) In India

    2.1.3. Pedals
    2.1.3.1. Fact #1 - stompboxes kick processors' ass.
    2.1.3.2. OD
    2.1.3.3. Distortion
    2.1.3.4. Effects (FX) - Chorus, Delay, Flanger, Phaser, Tremolo, Pitch Shift/Whammy, Looper
    2.1.3.5. Pedals - The Usual Suspects

    2.1.4. Processors
    2.1.4.1. Processors - The Usual Suspects

    2.2. Pickups
    2.2.1. Magnetics - Active vs Passive, Magnets, etc.
    2.2.2. Piezoelectrics and Neodymiums

    2.3 Recording

    2.4. Making the purchase, shops and shop reviews list, which shops to go to, which to avoid, and how to deal with them.
    2.5. List of useful threads/discussions, websites, and FAQs (frequently asked questions) section

    0. Introductions an' the likes
    0.1. What this is and why it is here.
    Hey there ;)

    Long story short - We were repeatedly typing this same shit over and over again for every newbie that came in here, because, hey, ironically, 99.99% of you guys have the same kind of questions! SO READ THIS BEFORE YOU POST - IF YOU ASK SOMETHING THAT'S ALREADY COVERED HERE, YOU WILL BE MADE FUN OF FOR BEING A RETARD OR WILL BE IGNORED OUTRIGHT.

    0.2. Disclaimer
    All this info is given in good faith, based on what we know and what has been known to work. And as with anything else in music - do not take our word on it, try it (given that you have experienced ears which can perceive the intricacies of sound; I guess this is probably the only reason why people say a certain product rocks/sucks and are at loggerheads over it - some have more experienced ears, and then again, whether something sounds good or not is also a matter of taste) and see for yourself.

    0.3. Suggestions/changes
    Feel free to suggest any changes to this guide. I'll incorporate it if it seems important/relevant/useful/true/established/widely-supported enough :p PM me if it's a small correction, but feel free to discuss it here with others if you wish. (BTW - what's the time limit till I can edit this post?)

    1. The Guide - Part 1
    1.1. BEFORE YOU BEGIN : Don't skimp, you get what you pay for!
    Alright. You're doing music. Here, some basic rules.
    MUSIC NEEDS A GOOD START UP.
    QUALITY EQUIPMENT COSTS DECENT MONEY,
    AND HIGH QUALITY EQUIPMENT CAN COST UNBELIEVABLE RATES (which are justified only to the musician who has really fallen in love with the special sound which only those equipments can provide)

    Anyone who's thinking that they'll get a good setup in 10k, REALITY CHECK.
    5-10K is just enough money for a decent starter's amp. 16-25K should be your minimum budget for an electric guitar in itself.

    If it was any good, it wouldn't be sold that cheap. Where is your idea of marketing?!

    Don't go by looks, or brand, or marketing claims. Applies when you buy ANYTHING, ANYTHING AT ALL. No one will tell you they have a bad product, NEVER, that's suicidal for the company!

    So what do you do when 'all' you have is 10 grand? YOU WAIT AND YOU SAVE. The options are all there in front of you - be cheap and buy something crappy, or save up for the good stuff.

    1.2. Guitar
    READ THIS BEFORE YOU PROCEED. (in fact, you can safely read only this and ignore the rest of the Guide, because the rest of this post is completely based on it, only adapted for an newbie's understanding)
    http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365675
    That link is the legendary store of knowledge which helped some of us arise from ignorance. We have recommended it to generations of newbies, and now we request you to read it before proceeding. Putting this link here was one of the prime motives of writing this post, we were getting exasperated with copying it for the benefit of every person who came around here.

    1.2.1. Questions you should ask yourself about buying a guitar
    1. Do I want a solid body electric, hollowbody electric, or acoustic?
    Solid body for practically all genres and maximum possible versatility.
    Hollowbody electric for jazz, and maybe country and pop. Basically, there's no distortion with them (they squeal and hum and feedback at high gain, I think.)
    Acoustic guitars are a class of their's own. Way different feel compared to the other end of the spectrum (the solidbody electrics), and they have their's own special sound, utilized in many genres, from pop, country, blues, rock, to percussive fingerstyle (Andy McKee, Preston Reed, etc) and acoustic bits in modern metal.

    (pending expansion)

    1.2.2. Guitars - The Usual Suspects
    Alrighty, most of the guitars in that thread are available here in India. Here is our list. Test all guitars thoroughly in this range. Every piece of the same model will differ in sound and performance. See the 'Info Thread' above.

    What shape of guitar do you want?
    Fender Telecaster - Squier Telecasters.
    Fender Stratocaster - NO, NOT SQUIER. Just don't do it. Instead, go for the famous Yamaha Pacifica 012/112V/112J (I'd recommend the 112s)
    Gibson Les Paul Style - Greg Bennett/Samick Avion AV3/4/5/6/7
    Gibson SG Style - Greg Bennett/Samick Torino TR3/4/5/6/7
    Superstrat - Ibanez RG series and Ibanez S series

    1.2.3. The "Don't go for tremolos on a low budget" rant.
    Okay, time out, time for me to voice a concern. Granted, I don't use a tremolo bar and have no interest in it whatsoever, but hey..."Tremolo". Stop and think. Ever heard Green Day's Boulevard Of Broken Dreams? The distorted guitar used there is using an effect called tremolo. 'Tremolo' means rhythmic variation in VOLUME. But the 'tremolo' on a guitar, what it does is it makes variations in PITCH (the note).

    The correct term can be vibrato bar. Vibrato is what you achieve when you bend the note or quickly move your fretting finger up and down on the same fret. Vibrato = variation in pitch, though usually it's very subtle and not like the kind the dive-bombers use it. The correct term can also be the whammy bar or something. But IT'S NOT A TREMOLO, SPREAD THE WORD.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whammy_bar
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrato_unit#Vibrato_or_tremolo.3F

    So why shouldn't you buy a cheap guitar with a double locking whammy? I'm going to write this for what I hope will be the last time in my life.

    A guitar with a Floyd Rose tremolo (aka double locking tremolo - clamps down on the string at the bridge and at the neck after the tuners) which costs less than ~30k will go out of tune very easily. You won't be using that whammy at all, forget subtle articulations, forget squeals and divebombing, nothing at all. When you do, the guitar will go out of tune, and...

    There are also some basic disadvantages to the FR system and these apply whether it's a good or a bad piece.
    -the guitar can take anything from 15 minutes to half an hour to tune, and you have to tune it around 3-4 times in the process, depending on how acquainted you are with it, but it can take a lot of time to learn.
    Which obviously means -
    -no Drop D tuning
    -actually, no alternate tunings at all
    -and if you have a cheap whammy, you use it, and you go out of tune, you're downed for half an hour.

    Personally I say just stay away from tremolos, hardtail ftw. But that's just me, some people can't take the fuss at all, and some want the capability to tune in different tunings. BUT ITS OBVIOUS, DON'T BUY A GUITAR WITH A WHAMMY IF YOU ARE NEW TO ELECTRIC GUITAR. None of the "I want the 'whole deal'" bullshit. It's just not worth it. Buy a expensive but good one later on. And every pro who uses a guitar with a whammy is wise enough to keep one (or two, or five, etc) spare guitar as a backup :p

    IGT has a shit loads of threads on this, Ima put em here when I can find them all. If you really want a cheap tremolo guitar, there's the Ibanez S420 (or something) which is for ~28k and has a ZR tremolo - said to be good and dependable. As with everything, try before you buy.

    Other stuff for this section - Buying a used guitar, threads which discuss importing guitars.

    Part 2 of The Guide : Signal Chain - Amps, Pedals, Processors, Laptop Processing, Handbuilt Tube Amps in India... >>
     
  2. guitardoctor

    guitardoctor Will Rx for food

    Congrats on putting the guide up! I am hopeful that the forum regulars will contribute towards converting it into a more complete and meaningful guide... Let's keep this thread as a "work in progress thread" and after the guide is complete, it can be moved to a definitive thread.

    Some points from my side:

    1. Make the ultimate guitar link into a separate sentence and bolder. I couldn't even see it at first.

    2. "Do I want a solid body electric, hollowbody electric, or acoustic?" section

    I think when a guy comes here, he already has a good idea of what he wants (based on the music he's trying to play)

    Maybe this should be changed to a "Common types of guitar" section

    Acoustic - subdivided into nylon string, steel string and electric acoustic

    Electric - subdivided into the popular body shapes of electric guitar (strat, tele, SG, Les Paul) and semi-acoustic
     
  3. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    Good point about keeping this as a WIP thread, particularly as I forgot to post some 'for future expansion' posts.

    The Guide needs a lot of work, particularly a decimal-numbered ordering system and a disclaimer. This was just a knee jerk to your post, and another thing pending is to include other guides and useful threads here (like yours, and I recall RR having one).

    #1 - incorporated.
    #2 - I'll look into it.

    Thanks for yer input :D
     
  4. flood

    flood New Member

    Thanks; I'd rather not until I set up a dedicated email address for my amps and stompers, which will be soon. Will let you know or write back here. If someone does want to contact me, they can send me a PM here for the time being. I'll PM back with my email address.

    while i'm thoroughly flattered and grateful for the praise, i think i should intervene here and say something... i think you might just be overestimating my amp-building.

    i pay attention to how i build my amplifiers and am fairly quality-conscious, but i would definitely not use the word "legendary" as a description for anything i've done till date. i'm still learning, still reading, looking at amplifier builds etc.

    my body of work is very small. i've built a total of 5 amps to date, and am working on 7 as we speak. ansar has built a fair amount of amps, and roy chvat, well, he just pwns us all. 30+ years of experience.

    i think what interests me more than anything else are somewhat offbeat projects, challenges, getting unique tones and not just cloning well-known amps outright. of course, this means more time, more time means more money and i'll be very frank - i cannot meet ansar's pricing, simply because i need to outsource a lot of peripheral work - metalworking, drilling, punching, finishing, carpentry, aesthetics etc. this drives prices up considerably. i also like good aesthetics, whether on the inside or on the outside - organized lead dress doesn't just make servicing a jiffy, it helps tone in a big way too.

    also, i don't have an established "model" as such, like the brat, solution, powerhouse etc. so all the amps built/to be built are quite different. no fixed prices either, because it depends on the time required which in turn depends on complexity. i'm rather lousy at pricing my amps, i guess the business acumen isn't quite there yet.

    as and when i think my amps are presentable, i will take photos and make new clips so people can see/hear for themselves. lots of gutshots too, naturally.

    what i AM accepting right now are orders for stompboxes, though.
     
  5. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    Originally, I wrote something which, while similar to what you say, but it seemed totally biased towards Ansar as far as the majority was concerned.

    Noted, I'll make an edit.
     
  6. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    << Part 1 of The Guide : Introductions, Basic info, Guitar info...

    2. The Guide - Part 2
    2.1. The Rest Of The Signal Chain - Amps, Pedals, Processors, Pickups.
    2.1.1. Which setup is for you.
    Decide what you generally plan on playing.

    Cover band/other 'need a lot of different sounds' scenario
    Cover bands need versatility in sound - lots of different tones and effects at quick disposal. A good processor is your way here. Cheaper ones tend to be a 'Jack of all trades, master of none' kind of setup, and the more expensive ones get better and better (but remember, nothing ever matches up to the original thing).

    Crafting your own sound/A more specific sound
    Now we're talking. If you're looking for your own sound, go for the gear that sounds good to you, and fits your genre/sound needs. Anything goes, you're on your own mostly. You have a choice between a pedalboard->amp setup, or a rack rig.

    Computer processing
    A laptop for live performance is pretty pricey. But this is said to be the future. Just check out the sounds you can accomplish from GuitarRig, Logic, ReValver and the rest, and you'll have a sound idea. People say it's gotten very close to the originals already. It's not hard to see it fitting into any application, any at all. All you need is a guitar, an interface (Line6 POD Studio UX2 is very popular and is priced very nicely for its feature set), and a laptop/computer (it had better be very fast) to get started.

    2.1.2. Amps
    2.1.2.1. 'Don't skimp on amps' rant
    An amp's effect on and importance for tone.
    2.1.2.2. Understanding an amp/Things to consider when choosing an amp
    Tube vs Solid State vs Modelling, Head and Cab vs Combo, Speaker sizes and configurations (8"/10"/12", 1x12, 2x12, 4x12 etc) and VVR and attenuation
    2.1.2.3. Amps - The Usual Suspects
    Cheapies
    Roland Cube series (Micro Cube, Cube 15/20 etc) ~5k onwards
    Peavey Vypyr 9~20k

    Somewhat better amps
    BE3 Brat 8.5-13.5k
    Vox AC4TV (debated) ~14k
    Laney Cub 8/10/12/15 10k/13k/?/?
    Roland Cube Street 17k

    Mid range workhorses
    BE3 Solution series 20k onwards
    Blackstar BH-5 (for metal on a budget) $420 (head) $400 (1x10 combo) $750 (1x10 half stack)
    Blackheart Killer Ant $275 (head)
    Blackheart Little Giant $304 (head) $531 (1x12 combo)

    2.1.2.4. Handbuilt Tube Amps (t3h 1337nezz) In India

    There are three amp builders in India, to our knowledge.
    flood - he may be contacted on www.freq20.com and here at IGT. (email address coming soon)
    He's more into "offbeat projects, challenges, getting unique tones and not just cloning well-known amps outright", and he is currently open for custom stompbox orders.
    Mohammed Ansar - of BE3 amplifiers. http://www.be3amplifiers.com
    Great stuff for most of us, really well made stuff and very well priced. Big companies around the world put 'boutique' (meaning they use vintage construction methods, for vintage tone) and 'hand-built' tags on amps and charge quite a little more than what we get from him.
    Roy Chvat of Guru amplifiers. http://www.guruamplifiers.com/
    He is the most experienced of the lot, in da biz since 30 years, makes stuff for the very discerning players.

    If you know anything about amps, you'll realize that these are among the best and the most affordable tube amps in India. The price may be higher than your regular mass-produced stuff, but the level of detail and quality that you get is pro level, and it's not half bad priced.

    Random tip for people who've scoured the BE3 site enough, if you're looking for a Solution 33 Live...it's better to bite the bullet and go for a Powerhouse 50. Recommendation by Mr. Ansar himself.

    Also for BE3 buyers and for people deciding on what speaker size they should be looking for (8"/10"/12")
    DON'T SKIMP ON THIS. A 12" speaker is highly recommended. Better sound quality (12" sound better, and Celestion Greenbacks and Celestion Vintage 30s are top notch speaker models), and better upgradability in the future (there are more quality 12" speakers available than 10" or 8") All in all, a true investment.

    --Processors--
    Line6's POD XT Live is popular amongst the processor crowd.
    Fractal Audio Systems' Axe-FX is said to be the best in the league, and costs lakhs.

    Someone needs to contribute more 'usual suspects' to this list, I'm not a processor person.

    2.1.3. Pedals
    2.1.3.1. Fact #1 - stompboxes kick processors' ass.
    2.1.3.2. OD
    2.1.3.3. Distortion
    2.1.3.4. Effects (FX) - Chorus, Delay, Flanger, Phaser, Tremolo, Pitch Shift/Whammy, Looper
    2.1.3.5. Pedals - The Usual Suspects

    2.1.4. Processors
    2.1.4.1. Processors - The Usual Suspects

    2.2. Pickups
    2.2.1. Magnetics - Active vs Passive, Magnets, etc.
    2.2.2. Piezoelectrics and Neodymiums

    2.3 Recording

    2.4. Making the purchase, shops and shop reviews list, which shops to go to, which to avoid, and how to deal with them.
    2.5. List of useful threads/discussions, websites, and FAQs (frequently asked questions) section

    Other topics pending expansion/rough area
    Tube vs solid state stuff
    Recording, studio. - tweakheadz.com
    Most commonly asked questions
    1. I want a guitar, amp and processor in 10k
    2. Should I buy xyz Ibanez or abc ESP?
    3. Can I connect a guitar to a PC?
    4. Which amp/processor should I get under 5k?

    << Part 1 of The Guide : Introductions, Basic info, Guitar info...
     
  7. shailm

    shailm New Member

    i dunno if anyones going to be interested in this, and it is mainly regurgitated shit from other people/websites, and some personal experience but-

    lets first discuss processors v pedals. sure your processor comes with 1,233
    effects, sure it comes with ten times those presets, but at some point over time
    you will come to the conclusion that it all sounds really really fake. for some reason
    faker than even digital stand alone pedals. you will NEVER EVER get the warmth and
    feel of stand alone pedals in a multi effects processers. i get that budget constraints and availability
    can force you into getting one of these, but i would rather have you use 10 behringer/danelectro
    pedals, than a processor (itll come out to be close to the same price). i played one of the
    digitech rpsomething, and could not believe how bad the bypass is on that (almost wah bad bypass)
    if youre someone that cares even a tiny bit about tone i hope you dont get a multi effects unit.

    after that rant, about pedal chains-
    the first rule is, there are no rules(yes i know, corny as ****, but oh well). use it anyway you please,
    if it sounds good to your ears nothing else matters. experiment, experiment experiment. for a basic "guideline"
    fuzz/distortion/compression => wah/envelope filter/auto wah => pitch shift=> modulation(phase->flange->
    chorus->trem) => reverb => delay.

    true bypass v buffered bypass- this ones been done to death with no clear winner. most builders prefer
    true bypass, while someone like pete cornish ( the guy who built gilmours muffs before, and his rig)
    swears by his buffered bypass( and charges ridiculously for it). for me boss type buffered bypass is great,
    I dont hear that much tone loss, and its great at the end of a long chain, or after wah/whammy sucks the
    life out of your tone. On the other hand, a lot of mxr pedals will destroy your tone(watch out for that DynaComp)
    as will some older electroharmonix pedals. Wahs come as the single biggest problem, as the bypassed tone on
    any average priced wah is horrendous, and true bypassed options are pretty expensive. solution? a true bypass
    looper. it addss another effect to your chain, but if there are pedals you cannot replace with true/better buffered
    bypass, this may be your only option.

    power/patch cables. Power is also a big issue with pedals. if you have a large number of pedals, you can hardly walk into
    a gig with 7 to 10 different adapters for your pedals, you WILL trip over one of them ( i swear this is not from personal
    experience, really). your best/most economical option is a one spot type adapter. but beware, there is a limit of i think
    1000 mA,(tubescreamer type pedals will use about 40 mA, while some behringers will use more, while zvex will use like 3 mA).
    there is a possibilty of hum, depending on the no. of pedals, how the wiring is where your playing, even the kind of lights that place has.
    but most of the time i can get away with using 4-6 pedals with no noise. also it accepts 110-220 volts, so will work
    no matter where you are. also no pedals with a positive ground (reverse polarity)(a lot of germanium based fuzzes and boosts)
    should be connected to this, it will blow the supply and/or damage your pedal. in live situations, it might be best to use
    batteries, as noise wise they would be more dependable.
    the best option is a power supply like the voodoo labs pedal power 2/ t rex power supply etc etc. these are way more expensive
    but are always dependable. if you have the money, go for it.
    shitty patch cables can get your tone to really really suck, even if you have great pedals. If you have anyone coming from abroad
    can order online, the best price to quality ratio is the Hosa patch cables (i forget which ones exactly, will put it up later), these
    have lasted me longer than George L's and are decent quality. available here though i guess the planet waves are great but expensive.the longer your
    chain, and the longer your cables, your original signal is going to loose strength, a boss type buffered pedal, a standalone buffer, or a boost pedal
    might help at the end of this chain.


    pedals-

    FUZZ- by far one of my favourite effects. so many options- silicon/germanium, muff/fuzz face/superfuzz/octafuzz/tone bender, hi gain/low gain,
    etc.etc.
    silicon fuzzes are usually higher gain, usually more treble than germanium, while germaniums can go from overdrivey to mediumish gain, and have
    the ability to give you a cool clean sound by just turning down your guitar volume. germanium is much warmer sounding to the ear than silicon, which
    can get harsh, but silicon has the ability to stand out of the mix much better in a band situation. your preference here matters more.\
    //
    big muff pi- extremely high gain, compressed pedal. usually silicon based. you can get some crazy sustain with this pedal (earlier versions of the big muff is
    what gilmour used, though with a boost in front of it).this pedal can get extremely noisy, especially with gain maxed out, and with single coils.at
    higher gains it will not matter what chord you decide to strum , it will just sound like noise.
    originally made by electro harmonix, there are many many many "boutique" clones of this pedal. famous users - david gilmour, smashing pumpkins
    (op-amp version), jack white, and many many others.
    currentcurrent electro harmonix versions are said not be as nice as the older ones (but that doesnt stop jack white), which are decently priced. the little big muff pi
    is available at 69$, bout 3,500, a nicer version is the big muff pi w tone wicker, priced at 80$. behringer also makes a clone of this pedal(vd-1). boutique wise
    theres skreddy pedals (waiting period involved), earthquaker devices hoof, blackout effectors musket are both based on the green russian muff. devi ever's soda meiser
    is a pedal i think based on the muff, mjm makes one as well.
    more info on muff at www.kitrae.net/music/music_big_muff.html. bhargavas in mumbai recently had some ehx pedals, im sure some versions of the muff must be available
    or then pm flood.
    ///////

    fuzz face- the hendrix pedal!! the dallas arbiter fuzz face is one of the first distortion type pedals to be made. hendrix used the germanium versions on his earlier
    albums, while the silicon version on the later ones. germanium fuzz faces are notoriously hard to get right, and use in live situations, as temperature effects the
    germanium in the pedal, and affects the sound. that is one of the reasons manufacturers moved to silicon. the silicon versions are higher gain, trebly and harsh
    compared to germanium transistors.
    im having trouble finding any cheap option for this one, but again maybe flood can help. the best one probably out there right now though is the analogman sun face.
    he will use the exact same transistors used in the originals for a higher price(nkt 275 germanium transistors). he also ships to india, and will mark the pedal
    at the price you want(but usually 50 $). i have never ordered from him in india so i donot know how well it works. checkout buyanalogman.com for other pedals as
    well. other options are mjm pedals, keeley fuzz head, mxr classic 108, fulltone 69/70. some people have apparently had decent luck with a danelectro cf1 on really
    low gain, but im not so sure.big muff clones at really really low gain might work. just one thing, never never get the dunlop fuzz face reissue, horrible pedal.
    //////

    tonebender- has been made by a number of companys(vox, colorsound, now DAM), and many versions(mk1, 2 and 3). used by page and harrison. clone wise the earthquaker
    devices tone reaper, mjm brit bender are available. the tone reaper claims it can get sounds from all three versions of the bender.

    //////

    superfuzz- the univox superfuzz is another coveted fuzz pedal. pete townshend made this one famous. clones- mjm, guyatone, boss hyperfuzz, behringer.

    ///////

    octafuzz- depending on the pedal, but mostly adds an octave down to your original signal, and adds fuzz. i think hendrix used one of these (a roger mayer octavia??). kind of makes
    everything sound kind explosive almost (sorry its the best way i can describe it). i think the mxr blue box does this(??), voodo labs proctavia, fulltone octafuzz/ultimate octave.
    not sure if behringer or danelectro have any options for this one.

    //////////////
    honourable mentions- danelectro cool cat fuzz (cf-1)- cheap, great for post rockish stuff, cheap, lots of gain available, did i mention cheap?(used by mogwai)

    zvex fuzz factory- uber expensive pedal, based on a fuzz face circuit, but infinitely weirder, can get everything from glitchy fuzz, to half decent fuzz face tones.my
    favourite sound available on this is in The W.A.N.D by The Flaming Lips. to be warned- a lot of people have a hard time using this pedal, as if you dont set it right
    its gonna squeel, and give you crazy oscillation, on the other hand matt bellamy of muse uses this pedal exactly for that. if your willing to experiment
    great fuzz tones can be achieved. vexter version is available for around 200 $, while the USA made is 300$. clones can be found on ebay for the 50-100 range.or you can contact flood
    (depending on if hes willing to do more zvex stuff).

    ehx black russian big muff- can be found on ebay for 20$ used. smoother sounding than the usa versions, ultra heavy duty build, but not true bypass, ultra noisy.
    it has been replaced by the bass big muff pi(i dont know how this one sounds on guitar).

    more to come later.....maybe tom. ill do overdrives and boost??
     
  8. thehundredthone

    thehundredthone New Member

    This is for people who are new to guitars? How about you make it human readable? Just because they don't know what tl;dr means doesn't mean they're going to read it.

    And why are your sub 10k amps all modelling amplifiers?
     
  9. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    ^Did you mean shailm's post or mine? o_O

    His is advanced, to be sure, but I'm sure I can pitch it down a little, but obviously it's not for an absolute beginner. It'll go to the more advanced section. Beginners can just read the guitar, amp and (god forbid) the processor section, and they'll be through. Pedals is a more intermediate user's area, let's get the herd to that level first xD

    And what else is there at 10k except for modelers?

    @Shailm -
    Thanks for the input. I'm not a pedal user, so it'd be great help for people who want to know more.
     
  10. thehundredthone

    thehundredthone New Member

    All the posts. Keep them short. Keep the subject matter concise. This is an internet forum post, not a book, so make information accessible at a glance.

    If you make this huge comprehensive "Read this first" post that no one scrolls past the first post of (and believe me that's 90% of the internet) then you're the real n00b.

    Below 10k are the non-Marshall non-Stranger >10W solid state amps that do pretty decently for practice and jamming. Like my Laney LX35R. Nothing spectacular but it gets the job done and for 8k it's driving a 10" with 30W which is pretty reasonable.
     
  11. ultrabot90

    ultrabot90 Like fishes need bicycles

    Sorry for the late reply, had a busy time.
    hundredth...It'll nullify hours of my work, but I'll admit, you got a point. Time for some deep shit forest-cutting revisions.
     

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